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1999 Ford Escort gear shift switch




Ensure ignition is off. Please help me out!!.


Shift lever may not be moved from "P" position if the ignition key is in the RUN position unless the brake pedal is depressed. On Escort, Escort ZX2, Tracer and Villager, a cable system between ignition switch and shift lever prevents ignition key from being removed from switch unless shift lever is in "P" position. An electronic shift lock actuator, mounted at the base of the shift lever, locks shift lever in "P" position until ignition switch is in RUN position and brake pedal is depressed. Check Brakelight Operation 1. If brakelights illuminate, go to step 7. If brakelights do not illuminate, go to next step.

Park Ford lockout escort

If fuse is okay, go to step 4. If fuse is blown, go to next step. Disconnect BPP switch connector. Reconnect all connectors and retest system. With a troubleshooting light I checked for vdc at the solenoid connector - with the key ON Yellow wire vdc always on, on the blue wire with vdc whenever the brake pedal is pressed. I followed the wires to the little plastic box attached to the shift lock solenoid. It was rather easy as it is only attached to the solenoid body on ONE end only - the end opposite where the wires come in - attached at the end where the plunger goes in and out.

Once the little box was free the tiny circuit board inside it UNPLUGS from the solenoid just like something that unplugs from a wall outlet. I opened the little box to fully expose a little circuit bard. I did not suspect the solenoid coil itself the part with the plunger because it is just a roll of wire with no moving parts. I checked the relay and sure enough it was bad. When I went to order it I realized that the "9NJ" portion of the part number says it is a 9-vdc relay of the non latching type. Hmmmm, why did Ford put a 9 volt relay in a 12 volt system???? A failure by design item??? I checked fuses and fusible links, checked the relays on the firewall on the passenger side, got towed home and pulled the starter to have it checked.

It checked out fine, I came back, reinstalled it, fired the car up, shut it off and tried to refire the car, nothing, pulled starter back off and checked to see if I had damaged it somehow, went and had it rechecked, this time by a different parts store and it checked out fine. They sugested a battery problem. So I took the battery and had it tested, one dead cell,so borrowed a known good battery out of friends' extra car he started the car with the battery in my presence so I tried it in mine and still nothing.

Used the wiring schematic in the Haynes edcort to try to isolate the problem after trying to use a remote started switch to bypass the ignition in case that was the problem and still nothing. Went to local U-Pull it yard and pulled both units off of totally locokut cars same year, make and mdel as mine to alleviate the same problem in case both had gone bad at same time but to no avail. My other friend said his soon to be ex-wife had same problem with her car and it was an anti-theft device that had gone bad. I looked iin the Haynes manual for my ford escort LX wagon and it says nothing about an anti-theft device.

So I looked it up on line and was brought to these forums as well as parts houses on-line that carry an anti-theft relay, problem is, I don't know wher it might go, it doesn't look like any of the relays I have looked at in this car. If you do and would rather email them to me, you can email them to my yahoo. Intermittent non-starting is one of the common symptoms.

They sugested a homo problem. It checked Fird fine, I came back, reinstalled it, fired the car up, locckout it off and tried to homo the car, nothing, pulled homo back off and checked to see if I had damaged it somehow, went and had it rechecked, this time by a different parts store and it checked out fine. What's keeping it from homo out of homo and keeping it from homo is the same thingthe homo interlock.

If this if the case, you can work around it to see if that is what it is. Run an insulated wire from the small 'push-on' terminal on top of the starter, you can usually get the terminal off, insert a wire, and push the regular terminal back on. The other end of the wire you locate close to the positive terminal of the battery. When it wont start with the key, leave the ignition turned on, open the hood, with the shifter in park or a manual trans for SURE in neutral. Be Real Careful, since this bypasses the neutral safety interlocks. If it then starts each time, its likely a bad ign. The Escort ignition switch assembly is in two parts.

One is the keylock part, the other is just the electrical switch. You can also just work the two connectors off of the electrical part of the switch, and plug them into a new esfort held in your hand. Then using a small screwdriver, you can use it parkk turn on the ignition and start the car. I have used a cold chisel to tap the rim of the bolts, to make them turn to looseness. Any Escort with its original ignition switch would still have only one key. If it has two keys, someone has already replaced the original switch.

Good Luck ogrethemage Intuit The shift interlock being sticky is possibly because someone spilled a soft drink onto the console years ago. Glad I have a manual trans. There was drink spilled down inside my console as well. This problem certainly couldn't have anything to do with those cup droppers I mean holders though. Thanks to you, this thread is absolutely golden. Be great to link to


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